True Laser Track Wins Daytona!

Rob Huffman Wins 2003 Goodies Dash Race using the True Laser Track

The True Laser Track (TLT) will become as essential as a set of scales.
You'll either buy and use the TLT, or you'll be following someone that did.

"We have adapters for everything from Winston Cup to Quarter Midgets."

How To Use The True Laser Track


The old way to track a car was, you take a string and pull it along the side of the car, taking a couple of jack stands to hold the string taunt and start to measure in to the wheel. You could measure in to the tire or in to the rim to get equal measurements. Then you would go up to the front and do the same thing. The problem with this type of measuring is, how much run out is in the rim and how much run out is in the tire sidewall when it’s mounted? This was never an accurate way to measure. We are going to show you the new way of tracking the car that is highly accurate using the True Laser Track *(TLT)

Tracking a car is trying to figure out the relationship between all four corners of a car, with your goal being to create less drag and less rolling resistance as you drive down the road, race track or drag strip. You also need to know how each tires contact patch with the road compares to the other 3 tires that are on the vehicle.

“True Laser Track”, is the most accurate way to check a car. We’re not the inventor of the laser but there are several different tools out there right now that use a laser string. They put the measurement to the wheel, and we all know there is run out in the rims and there is run out in the tires. What is different about ours is, it goes to the spindle. The spindle, or even measuring at the end of the hub using our True Laser Track has virtually no run out (less than half a thousandths) If you set track / toe and use the old method of going off the tire or the rim, you are usually setting the toe out at about an 1/8 of an inch. On a half mile oval your going to scrub (drag) that left front tire a 153 inches per LAP!!!. If you measure toe with the True Laser Track your going to set the toe to 20 thousandths. You’ll only drag that tire less than 20 inches per lap!!!!!. So everything being equal your car is going to be faster.

The True Laser Track mandrels (bases) are made out of 60/61; T6 so it’s good and rugged. The mandrels and each Adapter piece are machined within a half of a thousandth. All these adapters are spun on a surface plate with a dial indicator and show less than half a thousandths movement. If you should measure one of your hairs, that is three thousandths. So that is how accurate we are. Our lasers are built by the same company that produces them for the military and are built to military specs. These lasers are accurate within 2/10 of thousandths per inch at a hundred feet these are HIGHLY accurate lasers.

Please remember before you start - you can’t have any bent spindles or a bent rear-end. If you think you have a bent rear end, the True Laser Track will find it, so go to your “setting your rear dimensions” now. To assure accuracy you want to start with straight pieces.

* You need to set the ride height of the car. (You can do this by making ride height blocks to stabilize the chassis.)

* Remove the front dust covers and the rear drive flanges. Make sure there is no silicone or gasket material. Also, make sure there are no burrs on the flanges. Clean thoroughly, to ensure a proper mounting surface to the laser.

* Center the steering. (This is essential so you can set the right side wheels parallel.)

* Bolt the True Laser Track (mandrel/laser) with your specific adaptor to all four hubs.

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